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/ Kosrae
Kosrae
is Micronesia's most remote destination, and can be described
as an unblemished garden of flowers, palms and citrus trees
where the clear, clean seas that surround it are home to
healthy and diverse coral reefs. (So far the official tourist
brochure - which is close to the truth)
Kosrae
has three main geographical features - mountains, jungle
and mangrove forests, ringed by miles of white sandy beaches.
The
mountains are dense and rugged, and are covered by dense
tropical vegetation. Several peaks rise to over 2,000 feet
above sea level and the mountains account for over 70% of
the land mass.
Kosrae has spectacular fringing reefs that completely encircle
the island. The abundance of marine life and pristine hard
corals is impressive.
Missionaries have had a huge influence here, and Sundays
are days of rest and worship for the local population. Modesty
to exposed skin is also a problematic issue and on the dive
boat you will be guided to when it is appropriate to change
into your wetsuit, just to not offend any locals.
Visitor
numbers are very low on Kosrae. If you don't mind to have
Sundays a day off in your vacation and are looking for solitude,
this might just be your place.
How To Get There
The
island of Kosrae is located on the easternmost fringe of
the Federated States of Micronesia about 300 miles North
of the Equator and approximately 3000 miles southwest of
Hawaii. The island covers an area of 42 square miles.
Kosrae is a stop off point on Continental Micronesia's "Island
Hopper" service between Honolulu & Guam and 3 flights
per week operate from/to either of these points. On some
days, onward connections are operating from/to Cairns, Tokyo
& Manila.
Climate
Kosrae
has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the best time
to travel) is between December and April; the rainy season,
April to December, with the greatest falls between July
and October.
Temperatures
average between 78-90 degrees Fahrenheit (26-32 degrees
Celsius), with the water temperature sitting on a comfortable
year-round 82-84 Fahrenheit (28-29 degrees Celsius).
Culture
And History
The ancient Kosraeans were a seafaring people of presumed
Malayo descent and it appears that their culture was steeped
in royalty. On the small, hilly island of Lelu, a city of
basalt and coral was built to accommodate Kosrae's kings,
royal family and nobility. One of the World's more enigmatic
and fascinating monuments, the Lelu Ruins now reflect the
era of the past monarchies.
By
the 19th Century, Lelu had fallen into historical obscurity
and with the missionaries, new waves of Europeans &
Americans filtered into Kosrae. Amongst these settlers were
whalers, beachcombers & traders and over the years the
majority of Kosraeans were converted to Christianity. Today,
these devout and peaceful people continue their daily lives
as fishermen, weavers and canoe builders in much the same
manner as their ancestors have for hundreds of years. Fundamental
Christianity plays a major role in their lives today.
Diving
More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving
pioneers, and it is often said that the island is one large
20km (32 mile) dive site.
Each site has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper
anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for
exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens punctuate the
eastern side of the island, whilst to the west, the gardens
give way to plunging walls.
Sharks, dogtooth tunas, schools of barracudas and other
exciting ocean creatures can all be encountered along the
reef's edge. A rainbow of colours can be found in the forests
of tiny Christmas tree invertebrates that populate the large
corals. Underwater visibility averages 30 metres (100 feet).
This
coral reef is unique in that novice divers can enjoy an
easy diving experience, while their more experienced dive
buddy will marvel at the marine life. Below are a selection
of Kosrae's best dive sites:
- Hiroshi
Point: Located at buoy 15, this site offers divers
glimpses of large coral heads - estimated to be more than
2,000 years old - and large numbers of Christmas tree
worms and invertebrates. A diverse variety of marine life,
including eagle rays, schools of huge parrotfish, reef
sharks, barracudas and squids can be seen. It is a popular
shore entry with a high tide and low surf. Great for snorkelling,
too. Current is variable and generally runs north around
the point.
- Lelu
Current: Located at Buoy 54, and formerly known as
D'Urville Point, this site is on a wide reef shelf and
has many low-growing coral. It is often subject to rough
water and can have strong currents; boat entry only. Divers
have reported sailfish in the area. The point is a popular
fishing spot.
- Walung
Coral Shelf: Located at Buoy 32, the Walung Coral
Shelf is a spectacular dive that includes a great variety
of fish and healthy coral. The current is rough, sometimes
to difficult to dive, so planning a dive is critical.
The water is a little colder than usual, which is possibly
the reason why the fish are so numerous and large.
- Walung
Drop-Off: Located at Buoys 29 and 30, the drop-off
is one of the most popular dive spots in Kosrae. Incredible
sheer walls are home to schools of barracudas. All types
of marine life have been seen here - small hammerheads
and reef sharks, turtles, giant puffers, numerous small
invertebrates. The current can be strong. Buoy 29 is located
in shallow water and is a great snorkel spot; buoy 30
is on the outer reef.
- Malem
Reef Shelf: Located at Buoys 8 - 10 on the windward
side of the island, the site contains a wide reef shelf
and is profusely covered with low-growing coral. A variety
of fish can be seen here. Juvenile whale sharks have been
spotted in the past.
- Blue
Hole: Located across from Kosrae Nautilus Resort,
this site is accessible even in stormy weather. Within
the reef (maximum depth is 60 feet), you can see resident
stingrays, large numbers of juvenile fish, huge puffers,
and whatever else comes over the reef at high tide. Visibility
varies. Walk or swim over the reef flat for entry.
- Yela
Harbor and Wall: Located at Buoy 36, this deep wall
site is home to many corals and scribbled filefish that
are so curious and friendly that they'll follow divers
around.
- Shark
Island: Located at Buoys 39 and 40, this is considered
an excellent dive site with many species of fish and invertebrates,
but be careful of the fast current. If there is no current,
Shark Island is a great night dive, but only one of many.
- The
Leonora: Bully Hayes, infamous and notorious 19th
century American pirate and trader, would often use Kosrae
as a roadstead. In 1874, a typhoon whipped the ocean waters
and sunk the schooner, named in honor of one his twin
daughters. Discovered I 10 years later, the Leonora rests
in 30 feet of water at Utwe Harbor, though the only remnants
are a few metal objects.
Other
Activities
There are mysterious ancient ruins of the forefathers of
the Kosraean people. World War II artifacts, cave systems
and remnants abound and there's even a pirate ship sunk
beneath the waves. A hike up to Kosrae's famous Mount Omar
will take the visitor past a series of gushing waterfalls
pouring through the lush Kosrae jungle.
The
mangroves of Kosrae are spectacular. In some places they
form a high jungle canopy where rivers flow below and channels
rise and fall with the tides. Here is also a marine preserve
on Kosrae where juvenile creatures are allowed to grow and
flourished unmolested by humans.
Not all of Kosrae is paved and villages like Walung can
be reached only by boat. Here people go about their daily
lives without cars or electricity.
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