Kosrae is Micronesia's most remote destination, and can be described as an unblemished garden of flowers, palms and citrus trees where the clear, clean seas that surround it are home to healthy and diverse coral reefs. (So far the official tourist brochure - which is close to the truth)

Kosrae has three main geographical features - mountains, jungle and mangrove forests, ringed by miles of white sandy beaches.

The mountains are dense and rugged, and are covered by dense tropical vegetation. Several peaks rise to over 2,000 feet above sea level and the mountains account for over 70% of the land mass.

Kosrae has spectacular fringing reefs that completely encircle the island. The abundance of marine life and pristine hard corals is impressive.

  However, there is something you should be aware of. Missionaries have a huge influence here and unfortunately there are a lot of restrictions for visitors. For example, there are no activities at all allowed on Sundays. You cannot even go snorkeling. Modesty to exposed skin is also a problematic issue and on the dive boat you will be told when it is appropriate to change into your wetsuit, just to not offend any locals.

Visitor numbers are hence very low on Kosrae. If you prefer not to be restricted in your activities and movements, it is better to chose any other destination in Micronesia, which are more uncomplicated. If you don't mind a day off in your vacation and are looking for solitude, this might just be your place.

How To Get There

The island of Kosrae is located on the easternmost fringe of the Federated States of Micronesia about 300 miles North of the Equator and approximately 3000 miles southwest of Hawaii. The island covers an area of 42 square miles.

Kosrae is a stop off point on Continental Micronesia's "Island Hopper" service between Honolulu & Guam and 3 flights per week operate from/to either of these points. On some days, onward connections are operating from/to Cairns, Tokyo & Manila.

Climate

Kosrae has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the best time to travel) is between December and April; the rainy season, April to December, with the greatest falls between July and October.

Temperatures average between 78-90 degrees Fahrenheit (26-32 degrees Celsius), with the water temperature sitting on a comfortable year-round 82-84 Fahrenheit (28-29 degrees Celsius).

Culture And History

The ancient Kosraeans were a seafaring people of presumed Malayo descent and it appears that their culture was steeped in royalty. On the small, hilly island of Lelu, a city of basalt and coral was built to accommodate Kosrae's kings, royal family and nobility. One of the World's more enigmatic and fascinating monuments, the Lelu Ruins now reflect the era of the past monarchies.

By the 19th Century, Lelu had fallen into historical obscurity and with the missionaries, new waves of Europeans & Americans filtered into Kosrae. Amongst these settlers were whalers, beachcombers & traders and over the years the majority of Kosraeans were converted to Christianity. Today, these devout and peaceful people continue their daily lives as fishermen, weavers and canoe builders in much the same manner as their ancestors have for hundreds of years. Fundamental Christianity plays a major role in their lives today.

Diving

More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving pioneers, and it is often said that the island is one large 20km (32 mile) dive site.

Each site has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens punctuate the eastern side of the island, whilst to the west, the gardens give way to plunging walls.

Sharks, dogtooth tunas, schools of barracudas and other exciting ocean creatures can all be encountered along the reef's edge. A rainbow of colours can be found in the forests of tiny Christmas tree invertebrates that populate the large corals. Underwater visibility averages 30 metres (100 feet).

This coral reef is unique in that novice divers can enjoy an easy diving experience, while their more experienced dive buddy will marvel at the marine life. Below are a selection of Kosrae's best dive sites:

• Hiroshi Point: Located at buoy 15, this site offers divers glimpses of large coral heads - estimated to be more than 2,000 years old - and large numbers of Christmas tree worms and invertebrates. A diverse variety of marine life, including eagle rays, schools of huge parrotfish, reef sharks, barracudas and squids can be seen. It is a popular shore entry with a high tide and low surf. Great for snorkelling, too. Current is variable and generally runs north around the point.

• Lelu Current: Located at Buoy 54, and formerly known as D'Urville Point, this site is on a wide reef shelf and has many low-growing coral. It is often subject to rough water and can have strong currents; boat entry only. Divers have reported sailfish in the area. The point is a popular fishing spot.

  

• Walung Coral Shelf: Located at Buoy 32, the Walung Coral Shelf is a spectacular dive that includes a great variety of fish and healthy coral. The current is rough, sometimes to difficult to dive, so planning a dive is critical. The water is a little colder than usual, which is possibly the reason why the fish are so numerous and large.

• Walung Drop-Off: Located at Buoys 29 and 30, the drop-off is one of the most popular dive spots in Kosrae. Incredible sheer walls are home to schools of barracudas. All types of marine life have been seen here - small hammerheads and reef sharks, turtles, giant puffers, numerous small invertebrates. The current can be strong. Buoy 29 is located in shallow water and is a great snorkel spot; buoy 30 is on the outer reef.

• Malem Reef Shelf: Located at Buoys 8 - 10 on the windward side of the island, the site contains a wide reef shelf and is profusely covered with low-growing coral. A variety of fish can be seen here. Juvenile whale sharks have been spotted in the past.

• Blue Hole: Located across from Kosrae Nautilus Resort, this site is accessible even in stormy weather. Within the reef (maximum depth is 60 feet), you can see resident stingrays, large numbers of juvenile fish, huge puffers, and whatever else comes over the reef at high tide. Visibility varies. Walk or swim over the reef flat for entry.

• Yela Harbor and Wall: Located at Buoy 36, this deep wall site is home to many corals and scribbled filefish that are so curious and friendly that they'll follow divers around.

• Shark Island: Located at Buoys 39 and 40, this is considered an excellent dive site with many species of fish and invertebrates, but be careful of the fast current. If there is no current, Shark Island is a great night dive, but only one of many.

• The Leonora: Bully Hayes, infamous and notorious 19th century American pirate and trader, would often use Kosrae as a roadstead. In 1874, a typhoon whipped the ocean waters and sunk the schooner, named in honor of one his twin daughters. Discovered I 10 years later, the Leonora rests in 30 feet of water at Utwe Harbor, though the only remnants are a few metal objects.