Diversion News February 2006

Fiji (Kadavu) is up there with the best dive destinations in our programme as Phil has discovered. Nina went all the way to Thailand, to check out the best options for diving there. Claudia and myself report from our dream island in Indonesia: Gangga Island Resort near Manado.
And also in Indonesia, Phil's second installment on Pemuteran on Bali's north west coast.

Tufi Resort is becoming more interesting over the years. The good relationship between resorts and villagers allows visitors to this place some unique cultural insights between dives.

In Cairns we are eagerly awaiting Mike Ball's flagship, the Spoilsport, to start on her new itinerary into the Northern Coral Sea.

In the Marine section we introduce the work of the Australian Marine Conservation Foundation iand give some hints on sustainably harvested seafood.

Keep blowin' bubbles

Your Diversion Team

news@diversion

New faces: Ange Hellberg has moved to Lissenung Island. We wish her and Dietmar all the best on this unique island resort in PNG. Nina Joost moved into full time travel consultancy and Teri Marks is our newest reinforcement to keep the administration in good order.

Undersea Explore - Australia's premier adventure dive Monthly draw to continue in 2006.
When you your dive vacation with us you will get a chance to win a travel voucher for AU$ 500 in the monthly draw.
The voucher is transferable, so you can use it for your or your friends' travel.
The odds are very good, as each monthly draw has only those names, who booked in that month.

At the End of the year, all eligible bookings will enter a draw two win one of two fabulous dive cruises:

Undersea Explorer, Australia
6 night/ 6 days Osprey Reef Shark Encounter
Australia's ultimate Adventure dive expedition
Value AU$ 1950-2650

Ocean Hunter 2, Palau
7 night/7 days dive cruise
Experience the magic of Palau in style!
Value US$ 2895 (~ AU$ 3860)

For more information and conditions of this promotion, please check out http://diversionoz.com/en/win500voucher.htm

Australia

Spoilsport: New itinerary from Cairns

Good and bad news from the Mike Ball operation in Queensland!

First the bad news: At the end of January 2006, Spoilsport has just concluded their last and final sailing out of Townsville. Thousands of divers all over the world will fondly remember these expeditions to Flinders Reef and the famous Yongala wreck as one of the most spectacular dive cruises they have ever taken.

But Townsville's loss is Cairns' gain - We are excited to announce that as of the 16th of March, after a good 'face lift', Spoilsport will resume one of the most sought after dive itineraries possible from the gateway Cairns:

Every Thursday evening, she will provide the Mike Ball signature style and comfort on 7 night/6 day cruises to the Northern Ribbon Reefs combined with exciting shark dives far out at Osprey Reef in the Coral Sea.

Divers can complete just the first or second half of the expeditions by utilizing the spectacular low-level reef flight transfer option at Lizard Island.

For details please check out http://diversionOZ.com/en/spoilsport.htm

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Papua New Guinea

Tufi Diving, Cultural & Adventure Packages
It's no secret that for many years Tufi Dive Resort in Oro Province has been offering some of the best land-based diving in PNG set amidst come of the most spectacular fjord landscape you're likely to come across anywhere in the world.
However, visitors to PNG might be very interested to know that Tufi offers guests a complete PNG experience without the need to take time consuming flights to other parts of the country.

Over the past few years, the folks at Tufi have developed a very close working relationship with many of the neighbouring villages and are now offering packages that can offer excellent resort accommodation, diving, guided treks, village visits & extended kayak/trekking trips with overnight village stays.

Wall diving in the Coral Sea Diving & Adventure package costs are very reasonable, for example a 10 nights package including flights from/to Port Moresby, 7 nights at Tufi Resort, 3 nights village stay, 12 dives, all meals & transfers is available from AUD2460 per person twin share.
Of course, stays can be lengthened or shortened to suit your needs.

The Tufi region of PNG is very remote and unspoiled - it's only accessible by sea or plane, so this is an excellent way to experience some unique local culture and landscape along with the superb diving, of course !
For more information on Tufi Dive Resort: http://www.diversionoz.com/en/tufiresort.htm
Or, contact us for more detailed package information.

Tufi Cultural Show (9-11 June 2006)
Over the past few years the Tufi Cultural Show has developed into one of PNG's most authentic celebrations of traditional culture. This is a time when the remote tribes & villages of the Oro Province get together to celebrate their traditional background through dress, dance & music - it's without doubt a colourful & vibrant event that you won't forget !

To further complement the show we have put together an exciting 10 night programme that includes flights from/to Port Moresby,
8 nights at Tufi Resort, 2 nights village stay. all meals & guides.
The package cost starts from AUD 2255 per person twin share.
Only a limited number of places are available for this programme so please contact us for further details.

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Fiji

Kadavu Island

Phil Page Matava Resort on Kadavu Last November I had the pleasure of visiting Fiji to check out the diving and the resorts at Kadavu, Beqa Lagoon & Taveuni.
Whilst Fiji had long been established as one of the World's top dive destinations, new sites and reef systems are constantly being discovered amongst the 300 plus islands that make up the Fiji group, so I was keen to discover some of the pristine and remote areas.
My first stop was the island of Kadavu (the destination I'll focus on in this issue) - it's Fiji's fourth largest island and is situated 100km south of the main island Viti Levu, just a short 25 minute flight from Nadi, Fiji's international gateway.
Kadavu is one of Fiji's few remaining undeveloped islands - there are no roads beyond a short radius of the airport so access to the coastal communities is by sea or a network of tracks that traverse the island linking the 88 villages.
Matava Bure witrh Ocean view From the Vunisea Airport it was a short bus journey and then a very scenic 40 minute boat ride along the coast to the MATAVA RESORT. Tourism in Kadavu remains very low-key and the island offers a handful of small and intimate dive resorts - Matava is, of course, no exception to this.
Matava's location is superb , it's set on the waterfront facing beautiful Waya Island with the bure accommodation set into the hillside offering some stunning views, especially from the "Ocean View" bures where I enjoyed an uninterrupted panoramic vista out to fringing reef and well beyond.
Within a 10-15 minute boat ride of Matava is the Great Astrolobe Reef - an attraction that I just couldn't wait to explore!

The Great Astrolabe Reef is the world's fourth largest barrier reef and is Fiji's largest living organism. for details on the divesites go to our webpage: http://www.diversionoz.com/en/fiji/kadavudivesites.htm

Minke Whale on the surface with snorkellers Manta Reef is a very special dive and one of the few places in the world where manta rays can be seen regularly and are very often well within touching distance ! During my stay, four mantas were encountered on one dive followed by six a couple of days later resulting in some very happy divers !

I found that from Matava there's a range of diving environments to suit all tastes, from gutsy current drift dives to a gentle stroll amongst the protected coral gardens located inside the reef. Consequently, the snorkeling at the outer reefs, the nearby islands and out from Matava's own beach is superb making it the ideal destination for divers & snorkellers alike. There's no "big boat" operation at Matava so the group sizes are small - very rarely more than 4 divers at a time so it's all extremely friendly and personal, more like diving with friends !

"Kava" session at Matava What I liked so much about Matava (and Kadavu in general) is that no matter how good the diving was, there was always something more to enjoy from both a cultural & adventure aspect.
Matava's goal is to give guests a unique insight into traditional practices and rituals that still play a part in everyday Fiji life and many of the islands inhabitants form an integral part of the running of the resort. We all particularly enjoyed the kava circle sessions in the main house before & after our evening meal ! Richard & Jeanie are excellent hosts and very much in tune with the needs and aspirations of the local villagers.

Aside from diving, there's some interesting short walks to nearby villages or for those wanting to push themselves a little more there are plenty of guided treks that can be arranged.
Other activities include bird watching, village & cultural visits, a selection of waterfalls to sample and free kayaks are available at any time - a great way to explore the coastline.
Full day and guided overnight village stay trips can also be arranged.
As I had expected from an "eco-resort" Matava relies for the most part on solar-power and so gas lights are provided at night for the rooms - don't be put off, this adds a certain intimacy to it's already rustic charm !
Matava may not be for those expecting the 5 star facilities of an international class resort but it's ideal if you want to kick back, relax & experience some unique adventures both above and below the waterline !

Bure at Papageno Resort Despite being so remote and pristine, one of Kadavu's added attractions has to be it's easy of accessibility - for example, visitors from North America can fly non-stop from West Coast USA into Nadi and connect connect through to Kadavu on the same day, the same on the way back!
Packages including flights from/to Nadi, 6 nights accommodation, 5 dive days, all meals and transfers start from as low as AUD1310 per person (twin share) and the good news for single travellers is that they can also take advantage of the twin share rate if they are prepared to share with another single traveler should that be necessary.
This makes Matava excellent value and another reason to visit Kadavu !
http://diversionoz.com/en/fiji/matavaresort.htm

For those wanting a slightly less rustic experience on Kadavu, the PAPAGENO RESORT is an excellent alternative: http://www.diversionoz.com/en/fiji/papagenoresort.htm

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Thailand

Thailand travel notes

Have you travelled to Phuket on business lately? Trust me, you get no respect; everybody insisted on calling this assignment my "vacation". The objectives didn't help, either: Researching secluded holiday spots on the island's many beaches, and inspecting as many dive sites as possible in the Andaman Sea. Phuket is the major gateway for multi-day dive excursions to the Similan Islands and the Mergui Archipelago in Myanmar.

Descending towards Phuket airport in a wide loop over hundreds of photogenic limestone islands close to the coast, I was looking at paradise. Steep rainforest mountains, crescent beaches, mangrove forests and lush tropical vegetation with -relatively- mild and dry weather from November to April provide a perfect refuge from the Northern winter.

As caoutchouc plantations gave way to relentless suburban sprawl, it was clear immediately that from this paradise nobody had ever been cast out. Instead, thousands of new residents had come to stay and many, many more keep visiting each year. Phuket, an important multi-ethnic trading post for centuries, had become wealthy with tin mining long before the tourist boom hit with all its trappings.
I lost patience with the megalomaniac demands of local tuk-tuk drivers quickly and rented a car to explore the island away from the tourist centers. Driving among motorcycles, pedestrians and the odd chicken or water buffalo was a rather enjoyable experience once I accepted that the usual rules of traffic, like lane markings or stop signs, should be regarded as mere recommendations.

Buddhist temple ("Wat") in Bangkok Busy and loud as Phuket has become lately, the contemplative Thai lifestyle is still evident in the tranquil beauty of Buddhist temples and mosques, the pleasing aesthetics of Sino-Portuguese architecture, the unobtrusive friendliness and, of course, Thai food. Every meal is a feast (but you might want to give the ubiquitous thai-swedish-mexican fusion restaurants a miss).

Accommodation
The heart of Phuket's tourism industry are three adjacent beach towns: Patong, Karon and Kata Beach. Patong, as expected, exemplifies a rather unfortunate clash of irresponsible Western hedonism with Asian industriousness and is best avoided altogether, but the adjacent beaches are quite nice if crowded.

Recommended are the jungle cottages of the Marina Phuket Resort ($$$) in Karon, the quirky, inexpensive Kata Country House ($$) and the elegant Sawasdee Village ($$$$) in Kata Beach. The Sawasdee Guest House ($) in Kata Beach offers budget rooms from USD 25. -

Many divers prefer to embark on their live-aboard excursion jet-lagged straight from the airport, or escape on ferries to the remote tranquility of the neighbouring islands of Koh Lanta or Koh Raya.
But those of us in search of secluded beaches and small romantic hillside resorts and quiet tropical hideaways do not need to abandon Phuket Island completely. Just 30 minutes north of Patong, 10 minutes southwest of the airport, lays Nai Thon Beach, its quiet beauty still undiscovered and safe from the party crowd. The Nai Thon Beach Resort ($$) provides comfortable, inexpensive accommodation, while the more luxurious surroundings of the White Andaman Sea Resort ($$$$) are just around the corner, with little cottages lining a small, private cove.
An excellent online source to compare all Phuket hotel rates is http://www.asiarooms.com

Diving
Thailand, Koh-Samui But enough about the stress of land based activities. It was high time to embark on my live-aboard and succumb to the familiar daily rhythm of diving, eating, sleeping and diving some more. The choices of dive regions in the Andaman Sea are plentiful, and it is easy to find the perfect live-aboard for every travel schedule and budget. Those of you with more lenient employers than mine should definitely plan to spend at least 12 days at sea and see it all! And even then you will return with many coral bommies unexplored, many drift dives abandoned and many macro shots not taken due to lack of time and too much opportunity.
Shorter cruises are scheduled either to the Similan Islands including the world-famous Richelieu Rock only, or to the far more remote and pristine Mergui Archipelago beyond Myanmar's borders, with one-way transfers between the border town of Ranong and Phuket included in all cruise itineraries. The Thailand live-aboard diving season is short and only lasts from November to April, coinciding with the northeastern monsoons that dump their water mainly into the Gulf of Thailand to the East.

Similan Islands
Richelieu Rock, close to the Similan Islands National Park, is likely the most famous single dive site in this region and rightly so. We spent one whole day exploring this immense seamount, and would have loved to remain for a second day. The critters here are spectacular.
If you enjoy visual drama underwater, you will like it anywhere else as well: Massive granite boulders stacked together and towering up to 30 m/90ft above, creating canyons and swim throughs; equally impressive coral bommies blooming all over gentle, sandy slopes are all covered with the most magnificent

table and boulder corals, gorgonian fans, multi-coloured feather stars and every species of anemone fish; then there are huge reef walls perfect for drift diving, and majestic reef plateaus to explore in depths between 20-30m/60-90ft with lots of octopi, leopard sharks, sea snakes, countless species of moray eels, sea horses, ghost pipe fish and many hundreds of other tropical reef regulars. Not to forget manta rays and whale sharks, who cruise by regularly, especially towards the end of the season? Let's face it; I'll never be first in line to report from the latest muck diving hotspot.

Mergui Archipelago
There are four types of diving environments in the archipelago: shallow, inshore fringing island reefs where visibility is often poor but the diversity of marine life is unsurpassed; offshore fringing reefs where the visibility is considerably better, and the coral much healthier; pinnacles and small rocky islands which rise from the depths and attract larger marine life such as sharks and rays; and banks which rise up from depths of over 300 meters and attract different types of marine life altogether. All in all, the Mergui Archipelago contains some of the most diverse and interesting marine ecosystems in the world.

The Burma Banks are no longer the prime reason to visit the area, as there are so many better dive sites. Although sharks and rays are seen on a regular basis both at the Burma Banks and at the islands lying further inshore, environmental problems including long line fishing and trawling has had an effect on this type of wildlife. Much has been written about the area being a place to see sharks and other large fish, but the main reason for visiting, really, is to see the incredible variety of smaller fish and reef invertebrates, many of which are not found in Thai waters. If catching sight of large animals is the sole reason for visiting the archipelago, divers will be often disappointed. If you want to see fish and invertebrates not found anywhere else, you've come to the right place.

Many divers before me have already refuted rumours of widespread tsunami damage in the Andaman Sea. The beaches of Phuket sustained comparatively little damage in the first place, and all resorts have long since concluded the repairs and general upgrades of all their facilities. There are indeed some well-known dive sites like 'Deep Six' or 'Christmas Point' that are no longer included on any diving itinerary due to substantial damage. However - the vast majority of dive sites remained completely sheltered by the islands. Other sites like 'East of Eden', one of the many highlights during my excursion, cover such a vast area that it would take at least 3 extended dives to explore every single coral bommie in the vicinity; therefore, the corals that used to live towards the southern end before the tsunami were not missed by any diver new to the area.

Last not least, here are my 3 favourite live-aboards in no particular order:

Ocean Rover

The pioneer of multi-day dive excursions in Thailand. Mostly longer 9 & 12 night itineraries tailored to experienced, well-traveled divers. Spacious, stable, well designed, with all the utilitarian comforts divers and photographers crave - plus onboard luxuries like icemakers and cappuccino machines to turn surface intervals into pampering sessions. http://diversionOZ.com/en/sea/oceanrover.htm

Mermaid I & II

Mermaid I and Mermaid II are offering very convenient and flexible 2, 4, 7 & 9 night itineraries to mix and match. Mermaid II offers great value, inexpensive, no frills diving with a relaxed, fun crowd. Mermaid I with less passengers on board can please the most demanding guest and offers the best itineraries for experienced divers. http://diversionOZ.com/en/sea/mermaid.htm

Philkade
The perfect cruise for divers traveling with non-diving companions; this boat was designed as a private yacht and has only recently been refitted with a comfortable dive deck and staffed with experienced diving professionals. The gourmet meals, the elegant cabins, and the salon made for cocktail parties have always been there, and need to be seen to be believed. Not suitable for divers needing a lot of space-consuming gadgets, everybody else with adore their week traveling in luxury at surprisingly affordable prices.
http://diversionOZ.com/en/sea/philkade.htm

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Indonesia

Bilikiki is the best choice in the Solomons Gangga Island Resort, North Sulawesi Gangga Island the jewel of North Sulawesi

When friends of ours raved about a dive resort in Northern Sulawesi, Indonesia that offered world-class diving, beautiful beachfront bungalow accommodation (all with sea view), fantastic food, a beautiful beach to sunbathe on or swim from and very friendly hosts, we decided that we just had to check out the place for ourselves. Consequently, last October Dirk and I travelled to Sulawesi to find out more about Gangga Island Resort.

Northern Sulawesi is well known for three superb dive areas - Lembeh Strait, Bunaken National Marine Park and Gangga/Bangka Islands. To see them all you usually need to change your resort or take a liveaboard. If you don't want to change and divide your time into 2 or 3 dive resorts just to cover all the top dive areas then Gangga Island is the best place to base yourself. The island is ideally located and from here you can comfortably dive the various sites of North Sulawesi.
In only 90 minutes you can reach the fantastic blue water dive sites of Bunaken National Park, where you see the biggest turtles in the world.
90 minutes in the other direction and you are in the Lembeh Strait, the world's "capital" for spectacular muck diving. Here you can see all the weird creatures, plenty of frogfish, critters and much more.
Ambon Frogfish, Lembeh Strait The third dive area that offers some of Sulawesi's best diving is found right next to Gangga Island and neighbouring Bangka Island. Many of the local dive sites are reached in only 10 to 20 minutes. On one of those we saw the rare Ambon Scorpionfish, and took a nice shot of him:

The dive operators on Gangga have two day boats built in traditional Sulawesi style. One usually visits the closer dive sites and the other offers weekly trips further afield to Bunaken and Lembeh. Both day boats are very comfortable, each has plenty of shade and a toilet.

The only sour taste this region left was the large amount of rubbish floating on the water surface due to a lack of proper waste disposal facilities throughout Indonesia.
However, the diving in this region is so good that one might put up with this and support the resident dive operations in their attempts to improve the situation.

The resort certainly lived up to its acclaim - nice accommodation, great food, friendly service and last but not least, the Spa that rounds off a great day's diving! This is not your average spa, it is really special - after your dive you pampered with a relaxing massage with a sea view and then you can look forward to being tempted by the delicious Indonesian/European cuisine.

After our visit we agreed with our friends that Gangga is among the best land-based dive resorts in the world.
http://diversionOZ.com/en/sea/ganggaisland.htm

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Report from North-West Bali
In our last newsletter issue I told you of the lengths that the local and diving community at Pemuteran in Bali were going to in order to protect their marine environment, this included an annual turtle release programme along with reef regeneration & protection initiatives. In this second part we look at my diving report from both Pemuteran and nearby Menjangan Island, how does it rate ?

The Diving at Pemuteran
Reef Seen, owned & operated by Chris Brown, are the instigators of the Reef Protection Programme. They have a relaxing beachfront location less than 2 minutes walk along the beach from each of the beachfront resorts. Just about all the dive sites off Pemuteran are within a 10-15 minute boat ride with a driver and local dive guide provided.
The day I visited I took two dives. The morning dive at Close Encounters was superb.
Maximum depth is around 30 metres rising up to 5 metres. Visibility up to 40 metres at most times with an abundance of critters, fan coral, fusiliers, cuttle fish and a whole variety of nudibranch make this dive a macro photographers paradise although there’s plenty for everyone. Water temp was a comfortable 28c.
Reef Seen dive boat By the afternoon the visibility at Napoleon Reef was down a little but was still very acceptable at around 20 metres. Similar critter life and a spectacular coral reef garden. Both sites are ideal for divers of all levels and for snorkellers.

Menjangan Island
Menjangan Island is located on the very North West tip of Bali, to the West of Pemuteran. This is quite a large island surrounded by coral reef and limestone caves in most places. The reef wall runs just 100 metres from the island and the walls have some excellent coral growth. As with Pemuteran, the marine life is abundant although there’s not a great deal in the way of pelagics.
My first dive, in particular, at “The Slopes” was a comfortable drift dive, visibility was excellent and it was packed with colour and action.
Again, the marine life at 5 metres was quite phenomenal making for some nice long, safe dives. The best way to dive at Menganan would be to stay in Pemuteran and to take the Reef Seen boat out there - a couple of days diving at Menganan, combined with a few days on the Pemutaran reefs would make for an excellent combination.

Accommodation at Pemuteran
The Tamin Sari Resort, located on the beach at Pemuteran, offers a range of very nicely presented and furnished bungalows priced from around USD60 per night for a Garden Deluxe Bungalow. This is a very comfortable resort with a lovely swimming pool area and a poolside/beachfront restaurant.
Dining choices are also increased by the fact that there a two other resorts very close by.

Please contact us for more information on some excellent Pemuteran accommodation & diving packages.

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Diversion Marine Conservation Fund

Australian Marine Conservation Society - making a difference

The Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) was founded in 1965 and ever since has been a consistent and persuasive voice on a wide range of marine issues throughout Australia. In particular, the society's achievements led to the creation of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, the Ningaloo Reef campaign that stopped a large coastal development threatening to destroy the reef, and the creation of a protected habitat for grey nurse sharks on Australia's East Coast. AMCS is now working to ensure that 20-50% of Australia's marine habitats are protected in 'no-take' marine sanctuaries as an insurance policy against future over-exploitation.

Minke Whales are targeted this year by Japanes whalers In December we (DMCF) were approached by AMCS, to assist their lobbying effort with the Australian Government to help bring the Japanese government in line with current accepted environmental practices. The issue at stake is the increased targets set by Japanese whalers to slaughter whales for "scientific purposes" in Australian protected waters in the Antarctica.
We decided to support AMCS especially because this time around the plans included the slaughter of Minke Whales who visit our shores every year.

Wally Franklin By now most of you will have heard about the Japanese actions - these were highlighted last month by physical confrontations between Greenpeace activists and the whalers that opened the debate once again. Unfortunately, the Japanese government has shown in the past that they are not likely to respond to public international pressure. We hope, therefore, that the silent backdoor policy by AMCS together with the efforts of all other groups will bring a good result.

If you want to add your voice, a new signature campaign online has been launched by a Melbourne based organisation:
http://www.whalesrevenge.com/

Protecting our seas and oceans is a huge job and there are many issues at stake. As regular readers of our newsletter you will have noticed that the protection of sharks is an issue very close to our hearts. The relentless commercial killing of sharks and the subsequent depletion of their stocks is a major global catastrophe. We need to act now before it's too late !

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Which fish to eat?

Fish is probably one of the last food sources on our planet that is exploited in the traditional "hunter and gatherer" fashion. Mankind just takes what is seemingly freely available.

Well we all know that today's technology used by commercial fishing fleets has very little resemblance to the "hunter and gatherer" approach. The only resemblance is that they only take fish and don't do anything to replenish or protect the resource. Of course, there are responsible folk in the fishing community and I don't want to go into details, but the effects of today's approach is that local fisheries are dying, entire fish stocks are in danger to be wiped out and new deep sea fishing techniques are extinguishing fish species faster than some have even been discovered!

The driving force for all this is "the market". This is where you come in when shopping for fish at your local supermarket. We don't want to discourage anyone from enjoying fish, on the contrary, but as with all things today, there are choices to be made - both good and bad when you consider purchasing fish. Furthermore, with all the interesting names for fish popping up on supermarket shelves it's near to impossible to know what to do.
With this situation in mind, different organisations around the world have published fish guides to help you, the consumer, make the right choices. The information varies in each publication due to the different local fish names and availability.
Here is a random selection of fish eating guides worth checking out:

USA /Canada
Oceans alive (pocket guide)
http://www.environmentaldefense.org/documents/1980_pocket_seafood_selector.pdf
Seafood choices (Online directory)
http://www.seafoodchoices.net/home.php
Australia/Oceania
AMCS sustainable seafood guide
http://www.amcs.org.au/campaigns/sustainable_seafood_guide/sustainable_seafood_guide.html
UK/ Europe:
Marine Conservation Society (UK) (pocket guide) http://www.fishonline.org/information/MCSPocket_Good_Fish_Guide.pdf
Germany
WWF (auf deutsch)
http://www.label-online.de/pdf/28.pdf

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Specials
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http://diversionOZ.com/en/specials.htm

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