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Destinations
/ South East Asia
/ Indonesia
The
islands of the Indonesian archipelago stretch from the Asian mainland
into the Pacific Ocean. Richly endowed with natural resources and
hosting a phenomenal array of distinct cultures, they have been
a magnet to Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytising
missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travellers
and package tourists.
It's
the fourth most populous country in the world, with more than 200
million people. In all, over 370 cultures and hundreds of languages
are scattered across its far-flung lands. We think the country's
diversity one of the best reasons to visit Indonesia.
Despite
the national motto `unity in diversity', these cultures are under
threat from Indonesianisation as the islands are gradually unified
under centralised Javanese rule. The multicultural concept of strength
in difference has been a hard one to maintain in the face of such
geographic and cultural fragmentation, and the Indonesian government
has opted for strong, centralised rule. However, there are two great
diving areas that are well known for being able to maintain their
distinctive local culture.
Bali,
in particular, is an easy and enjoyable place to visit, offering
comfortable amenities as well as stunning sights, an interesting
Hindu culture and friendly people. Even as the rest of the nation
struggled with economic crises, political crises, and violent ethnic
and religious conflicts, Bali remains mostly unaffected by the turmoil.
Indonesia's
fourth largest island, Sulawesi,
splays like a drunken octopus on the seas between Borneo and Maluku.
The long narrow arm of the mountainous northern peninsula contributes
to the island's contorted shape. Home to a predominantly Christian
population, the province of North Sulawesi, occupies the majority
of this strikingly beautiful peninsula.
The
island's physical beauty, with its forested mountains and stunning
coral reefs, is surpassed only by its intriguing biology. Sulawesi
is the largest and most central island of Wallacea, a unique region
of the world where plants and animals from Asia and Australia mix.
For example, in Sulawesi, Asian monkeys share the forests with pouched
marsupials of Australian origin.
Indonesia
has an area of 1,919,443 square kilomtres (sq.km) scattered over
about 13,700 islands. The country also claims sovereignty over 3,272,160
sq. km of sea stretching from Asia to Australia. An active volcanic
arc runs through Sumatra, Java and the islands of Nusa Tenggara,
and then north through Maluku to Sulawesi. It marks the place where
tectonic plates plunge one beneath the other. This is an area of
intense volcanic activity called the "ring of fire." Off
the coast of these islands is a deep sea trench, in places more
than 7,000 metres deep. Within the arc is the more stable Sunda
Shelf with shallow seas and less dramatic landscape. Some parts
of the country remain vast, barely explored regions of dense jungle,
and many islands have extinct, active or dormant volcanoes.
How
to get there
Indonesia has several international airports. Besides the Jakarta
Soekarno-Hatta Airport, which serves both as gateway to the country
and hub to all of Indonesia's provinces, international flights also
arrive in and leave direct from Bali, and Surabaya. There are direct
regional flights from Singapore and Malaysia to several destinations
including Medan, Padang, Pekanbaru, Solo, Lombok, Makassar (formerly
known as Ujung Pandang) and Manado, and from Australia to Bali.
Soon, the once popular Darwin (Australia) to Kupang route will begin
operation once more, opening up more opportunities for divers in
Eastern Indonesia.
Climate
Like
other regions in SE Asia, Indonesia has a typical equatorial climate
with two seasons: rainy and dry. Starting in September, cool Northwesterly
winds pick up moisture while crossing the South China Sea and arrive
in the Sulawesi Sea about November. The wet season lasts from about
November to March in this area.
Mean temperatures at sea level are uniform,varying by only a few
degrees throughout the region, and throughout the year (25°-
28°C). However, temperatures are decreasing 1°C for every
200 metres of altitude, which provides a cool pleasant climate in
upland communities.
Strong cyclones and typhoons, which normally occur in higher latitudes,
are absent in Indonesia, but afternoon thunderstorms are common
throughout the year.
Cultural
information
Indonesia
is rich in art and culture, which are intertwined with religion
and age-old traditions from the time of early migrants, to the Western
thoughts brought by Portuguese traders and Dutch colonialists. The
basic principles which guided life include the concepts of "gotong
royong" (mutual assistance) and "musyawarah" (deliberations)
to arrive at a "mufakat" (consensus). Derived from a rural
way of life, this system is still very much in use in community
life throughout the country.
Though the legal system is loosely based on the Dutch penal code,
social lives as well as the rites of passage are founded on customary
or "Adat Law" which differs from area to area. "Adat
Law" has a binding impact on Indonesian life and it is this
law has been instrumental in maintaining equal rights for women
in strong Islamic areas. Religious influences on the community are
evident from island to island. Unlike some other countries, art-forms
in Indonesia are not only based on folklore. Many were developed
in the courts of former kingdoms and, (as in Bali), are part of
religious ceremonies.
The
famous dance dramas of Java and Bali are derived from Hindu mythology
and often feature fragments from the Ramayana and Mahabharata Hindu
epics. Bamboo xylophones are used in North Sulawesi and the bamboo
"angklung" instruments of West Java are well known for
their unique tinkling notes which can be adapted to any melody.
The most Indonesian of all, is the puppet show. The "wayang
kulit" (leather puppet shadow play) of Java is performed with
leather puppets held by the "dalang" (puppeteer), who
narrates the story of one of the famous episodes of the Hindu epics,
the Ramayana or the Mahabharata. It is performed against a white
screen, and a lantern in the background casts the shadows of the
characters (puppets) on the screen through a frontal performance.
The "wayang golek" (puppets carved of wood in three dimensional
figures) popular in West Java is based on the same concepts, but
not using a screen. "Unity through diversity" exists on
a daily level.
Diving
Underwater, the depths of the Indian and Pacific Oceans meet, forming
a series of distinct seas that separate the two giants. In the centre
of the Indonesian archipelago, where Asia and Australia meet, is
a geographic triangle with more marine species than anywhere else
in the world. The points of the triangle are roughly from the southern
Philippines, southwest to Bali and southeast to West Papua. This
rich volcanic area combines miles of coastline, warm equatorial
currents, nutrient-rich upwellings and a tropical climate that come
together to create a biological wonderland.
Areas
such as Bunaken Marine Park off Northern Sulawesi, is known
for wall diving and clear waters. Lembeh Strait, (also accessed
from north Sulawesi) is famous for unsurpassed muck diving.
Wakatobi,
off southeast Sulawesi is endowed with magnificent coral gardens.
Wakotobi is well know for its unique marine
life and the variety of it, especially the smaller creatures.
Komodo
Marine Park, east of Bali and Lombok in the central part of
the country, supports a variety of marine life that thrives on upwellings.
Bali has some of Indonesia's best beach diving, especially at Tulamben
in eastern Bali which is famous for the Liberty Wreck.
One
of the best combinations of fish and coral is found in the Raja
Empat Islands of West Papua-formerly known as Irian Jaya. Manta
Rays and a jellyfish lake are hallmarks of diving at Sangalaki on
the southern part of Borneo.
Indonesia
is surrounded by water and much of the best diving is accessible
only from liveaboards, although there are areas like Lembeh Strait,
Tulamben, Wakatobi and West Papua, where the land-based diving is
superb. It's nice to do both in one holiday-a liveaboard for a few
days, and then on land at one of the wonderful dive resorts.
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